Today I braved the streets of Kolkata to visit New Market, a large shopping district near The Oberoi, where we are staying. Because Kolkata is so hectic, and because many of the merchants only speak Bengla, the hotel sent a guide, the lovely Rupa, to help us negotiate the maze of shops and stalls that is New Market.
Rupa leads us out into the 90 degree heat dressed in a black pant suit. The rest of us follow in light cotton tees, skirts or jeans. During the entire three hour shopping trip she never once breaks a sweat, a feat that amazes me. We start by looking at Kirtis, basically a cotton tunic, often hand embroidered with flowers or abstract designs. The first stall we go to has several cheap looking Kirtis that I'm not in love with. Rupa tries to negotiate for 150 rupees, but the merchants won't budge for less than 190. At 50 rupees to the dollar the difference is less than fifty cents, but there is something about the way they talk to Rupa that I dislike, so we move on to the next stalls. There I find a beautiful black embroidered Kirti, in striking reds, golds and greens. At 650 rupees, it's much more expensive than the previous stall, but it's also of a higher quality. I'm sold. Two stalls down I by a simple long sleeve red and black Kirti from a shy seller. It's quality is not as high as the other one, but it seems perfect for school, and it's three dollars. A bargain.
I should stop and explain here that shopping in Kolkata is not like shopping anywhere else. Merchants come out of their stalls and walk alongside you, talking to you as you walk down the street. They often stand and watch you as you shop, then continue to try to persuade you into their stall. When you are inside a stall, the merchant behi d the counter lays item after item in front of you, praising its value and beauty until you either find something you can't live without, or feel you are about to cave from the pressure. Being tall and fair skinned, I'm often mistaken for British, and singled out of the group as an obvious mark. I constantly have to remind myself that Kolkata is not a place to be trusted.
Meanwhile, Kyle, another participant is causing quite a stir as he searches for the perfect men's version of a Kirti. He moves between two different stalls and several men stand outside the stall watching him examine the different fabrics. What seems like ages, but is really only about half an hour Kyle has finally found a garment that fits and we stop to get some lunch. I enjoy a delicious bowl of Veg Birayati, a rice and vegetable dish that hides a icy potato at the center. The meal is simple and filling, and at 68 rupees, less than two dollars.
Rupa leads us to another part of New Market, underground, and Bre, our resident director and I cool off in some of the tiny, air-conditioned jewelry stores. While some participants shop for shoes or tops, it's nice to be able to take a break and look at beautiful, hand carved marble elephants or silver rings or earrings.
Three hours of shopping and I return to the Oberoi having spent about 25 dollars on three tops, lunch, and a pair of sandals. I remind myself that I will be here for a month, and that many shopping trips await.
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